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Original Message "RE: Pigments " Posted by Ilia on 01-Apr-01 at 12:38 PM Hi Gary, I would suggest testing all of the synthetic pigments (>Irgazine Orange - a new substitute >for Cadmium) thoroughly and, if possible, not to use them at all. Test it this way - grind some pigment with water and mix the resulted past with lime patty. Leave to sit for a long while (month?). If color changes - do not use it. However this test is not the "ultimate test" - time is the best tester! Here is an example from my studio: I have about 2LB of the beautiful green - it was manufactured for fresco in 1930th, the original tin reads "Fine Fresco Pigments" - gift from a friend, former WPA artist. Guess what? this thing (gp) turns to ugly yellow almost as you mix it with lime. My explanation would be - some chemical reactions are very "slow" (read about it somewhere)- this pigment tested as perfect for fresco 70 years ago, but now formula became unstable. So go figure!!! Pigments you can trust: Lime White Cadmium Yellow, light Yellow Ochre Raw Sienna Burnt Sienna Pezzuole Red Earth Red, red oxide Light Red Venitian Red Cadmium Red Raw Umber Burnt Umber Terra Verde Malachite Green Verdaccio Veridian Cobalt Green Cobalt Blue Ultramarine Lapis Lasuly (cost an arm and a leg) Glass mullers are expensive, traditionally they where substituted with small polished blocks of marble or granite. You can get those cheaply in local marble place Ilia Anossov http://www.truefresco.com/workshop PS. I do not see why anyone will need to speed up the curing of the plaster. I always look to extand it - more time to paint - better results?

Go back     FAQ       Conferences Post form Your Message Name*: Subject*: Message*:   HTML Ok Use [] in place of <> HTML Reference   Images Ok   Click on a smilie to add it to your message.   > >Hi Gary, > >I would suggest testing all of the synthetic >pigments (>Irgazine Orange - a new substitute >>for Cadmium) thoroughly >and, if possible, not to use them at all. > >Test it this way - grind some pigment with water >and mix the resulted past with lime patty. Leave >to sit for a long while (month?). If color >changes - do not use it. > >However this test is not the "ultimate test" - >time is the best tester! >Here is an example from my studio: >I have about 2LB of the beautiful green - it was >manufactured for fresco in 1930th, the original >tin reads "Fine Fresco Pigments" - gift from a >friend, former WPA artist. Guess what? this >thing (gp) turns to ugly yellow almost as you >mix it with lime. My explanation would be - some >chemical reactions are very "slow" (read about >it somewhere)- this pigment tested as perfect >for fresco 70 years ago, but now formula became >unstable. >So go figure!!! > >Pigments you can trust: > >[b][i]Lime White >Cadmium Yellow, light >Yellow Ochre >Raw Sienna >Burnt Sienna >Pezzuole Red >Earth Red, red oxide >Light Red >Venitian Red >Cadmium Red >Raw Umber >Burnt Umber >Terra Verde >Malachite Green >Verdaccio >Veridian >Cobalt Green >Cobalt Blue >Ultramarine >Lapis Lasuly (cost an arm and a leg)[/i][/b] > > >Glass mullers are expensive, traditionally they >where substituted with small polished blocks of >marble or granite. You can get those cheaply in >local marble place > >Ilia Anossov >http://www.truefresco.com/workshop > >PS. I do not see why anyone will need to speed >up the curing of the plaster. I always look to >extand it - more time to paint - better results? Check if you DO NOT wish to use emotion icons in your message

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