>
>Thanks again so much for the reply. Sorry, my
>mistake on the pigments. What I meant was that I
>wanted to use only the ochres & natural earth
>pigments, so the mars reds and yellows are out.
>I think I may have given up on achieving the
>depth I want with just VP, though, and am now
>thinking about using a glaze over the vp. I
>tried a traditional turpentine/linseed oil glaze
>but it of course sank right into the vp - BUT
>this may be bc I didnt let it cure; i.e. I
>applied the oil wet, and the VP drank it up like
>someone in the desert. I am thinking about how I
>could EITHER use two coats of VP; i.e. yellow
>undercoat, red on top, and then sand back the
>first, OR a yellow ochre coat of VP with a red
>glaze. Any comments on any of this? Oh, as a
>final touch, I saw in Kevin McCloud's book a
>nice top coat of a white wash meant to simulate
>the "saltiness" that terracotta gets. I would be
>thrilled to able to achieve the yellow/red/white
>undulation. I think it would be georgeous, and I
>know there's a way to do it, but I'm unsure
>about the mixed media. Thanks...Maria

Oh, I see - this is much more clear than the other thread. Mars is just another name for iron oxide, but if you want to stay away from oxides, that is fine.

Do what you have outlined sanding also - will give nice effect. make sure you let it dry between coats completely. then before applying the glaze - seal it with any plaster sealer to stop from absorbing the glaze.

Then glaze avay like you would glaze a regular wall.
The only "problem" (traditionally true marmorinos were waxed and polished) I can see is that you will not have matte surface, but you can apply matte top-coat or deglosser afterwards.