Has anyone tried welding their own frames to plaster into? What does that involve? Is that conceivably a DIY thing, or would I need to call a machine shop?

I like wooden frames, but there needs to be something to attatch it to..

Any other ideas?

Also, they mention a lightened concrete. Has anyone tried this? It also says they don't make it in the US, but when I spoke with a contractor, he said he does use something which sounds like that on floors.
I only use portland cement in the first coat, but what about it???

Thanks so much!!

in addition, welding has to be done by specialists in the metal shop.

so if your panel is around 24X24 then you dont need metal frame. you can use marine plywood and staple chicken wire to it and build the plaster on that. You can also attach wooden frame to it prior to plastering, just tape it (frame) out when plastering, this way it wont get dirty.

for smaller sizes - ceramic tiles of 12X12, 16X16 and 18X18 is all you need.

learn fresco at http://FrescoSchool.org

fresco painting video tutorials: http://www.FrescoSchool.com

also visit

Fresco School Video Channel
http://youtube.com/FrescoSchool

Contemporary Fresco Gazette
http://trueFresco.Org
commission fresco or mural http://iLAdesigns.com

learn fresco at http://FrescoSchool.org

fresco painting video tutorials: http://www.FrescoSchool.com

also visit

Fresco School Video Channel
http://youtube.com/FrescoSchool

Contemporary Fresco Gazette
http://trueFresco.Org
commission fresco or mural http://iLAdesigns.com

ceramic tile 1/4 of an inch

coats of plaster - regardless how light will be much thicker and heavier.

What did i miss?

The problem here is that having multiple coats, just for the structure prevents/impairs the understanding of the more important function of the coats - such as control of "moisture saturation"

anything thicker then 1/2 of an inch can only be used on the wall or panel with minimum size of 15-20 sq foot.

else it keeps too much water or if moistened lightly "drinks" and evaporates water too fast to paint properly.

learn fresco at http://FrescoSchool.org

fresco painting video tutorials: http://www.FrescoSchool.com

also visit

Fresco School Video Channel
http://youtube.com/FrescoSchool

Contemporary Fresco Gazette
http://trueFresco.Org
commission fresco or mural http://iLAdesigns.com

Painting longer than that on 1-2 sq. feet is not a right thing to do, technically it will destroy the "skin" and cause other complications.

as of burlap ones - you forgot 3 hours is the time I have to wait before the plaster is ready to paint. On ceramic tile, I start painting within 10 minutes.

in reality the only support that will give you 8-12 hours of real open time is a wall that is at least 10X10 feet.

you can upload picture here - jpeg under 150 kbytes should worjk just fine

learn fresco at http://FrescoSchool.org

fresco painting video tutorials: http://www.FrescoSchool.com

also visit

Fresco School Video Channel
http://youtube.com/FrescoSchool

Contemporary Fresco Gazette
http://trueFresco.Org
commission fresco or mural http://iLAdesigns.com

However I did refined my technique and that is what I teach in class - fresco helps you to cut all redundancies and insertanties in painting that "paint over mediums" are often trapping us into, since it is so "easy" - make a wrong stroke - not a biggie, just paint it over... so this is why we end up painting one painting for weeks and more....

anyway the old masters giornatas were proportionate to how much they could paint in one day - about 12 square feet - 1 hour per foot... It takes double that time to paint a 1 sq. foot tile simply because you have to let the paint/water "sit" so you do not overwet and wash away the layers you put on already.

buy this book, it has diagram of Sistine Chapels giornatas, the largest one, i believe is over 80 sq feet...

http://truefresco.org/bookshop/4_1000_0810938405_The-Sistine-Chapel-A-Glorious-Restoration.html

PS. You board looks impressive, I assume it is very light?

learn fresco at http://FrescoSchool.org

fresco painting video tutorials: http://www.FrescoSchool.com

also visit

Fresco School Video Channel
http://youtube.com/FrescoSchool

Contemporary Fresco Gazette
http://trueFresco.Org
commission fresco or mural http://iLAdesigns.com

let me know what did you do exactly to end up with this result - this thing happens with all pigments if they are applied after the plaster locks (run out of painting time)... Also at the beginning it is better to use pure lime putty for white, since it is more active the refined bianco san giovany, after all it is the same thing, but "bianco is more of a chalk" due to the process of prep

I want to be able to use some
>whitened tints, and not just paint
>transparently, like watercolor.

You do it at the end of the day, and you have to ajust for "whitening when dry", always since the plaster itself changes to prure white and shifts all colors lighter - this is a spesifics of fresco - you need to paint 2-3 shades darker then you want the final result to be.

The one will paint in "watercolor like" just because it is faster then using tempera-like (mixed with white) tones also in fresco you are "building up" the pigment layer - not applying paint coats (paint over medium)...

in short you need to build the color before you can put white on top and work out the lighter value, it does not make much sense to put white ontop of already white plaster, does it?

this is very important to define, at the end of the day plaster fills up and you work-refine the primary plain with the use of white.

learn fresco at http://FrescoSchool.org

fresco painting video tutorials: http://www.FrescoSchool.com

also visit

Fresco School Video Channel
http://youtube.com/FrescoSchool

Contemporary Fresco Gazette
http://trueFresco.Org
commission fresco or mural http://iLAdesigns.com

> You say to use lime-white putty "in the
>beginning"

of your "carier as fresco painter"

and also " at the end of the day" ?

white is the last thing that goes on:
at the end of verdaccio (underpainting)
at the end of painting day (accents and value lightening)

>feels like pure fresco when only lime-putty is
>used.

thats what i use

> I received the FrescoShop bucket of lime
>putty today, and am going to do some small test
>swatches with it using different grades of sand
>and proportions. Why do you use less sand for
>the intonaco layer ( 5:8 lime/sand ) than for
>the undercoats which are 1:2 ? For smoother
>surface or better adhesion?

it is just easier to put on thin - little bit "fatter"
do not make a special mix for that, just ad some lime to your mix right before applying.

learn fresco at http://FrescoSchool.org

fresco painting video tutorials: http://www.FrescoSchool.com

also visit

Fresco School Video Channel
http://youtube.com/FrescoSchool

Contemporary Fresco Gazette
http://trueFresco.Org
commission fresco or mural http://iLAdesigns.com